1. First examine your loco to see how the smoke-box is secured. On Lady Anne and Katie, for example, it is a one piece casting with the saddle and front footplate. It is secured by three screws and when these are removed it slides forwards and then up to clear the exhausts. On Millie it is a single screw at the front. On some models it is more complex – if in doubt seek advice and check out our Fitting Notes pages where fellow enthusiasts share there fitting experiences.
2. When the exhausts are exposed you will see that on models made in the last fifteen years or so. the exhausts are crimped at the top and are slightly loose so that they swivel forward slightly. It is necessary to cut these to the correct length with either a sharp junior hacksaw or a cutting disc (note that a cutting disc is essential on Carrie). Eye protection should be worn if using cutting discs.
If you have an earlier model with short, open exhausts, or a tube pushed over the exhausts, please scroll down for some additional notes.
3. Now place the smoke-box on the footplate beside the pipes and measure down 72 mm from the top of the chimney (see Photo 1). Please note: For Bertie it is 78mm and for Darj B 82mm due to the longer chimneys - and for Russell measure down 66mm due to the shorter one. Mark both pipes at this point for cutting. (Then check it again!) Because the Chuffer adapter is a push fit onto these pipes, the top of the Chuffer will end up about 5mm below the top of the chimney on most locos when pushed on to the pipes. On Bertie and the Darj B, it is lower and on Russell it is nearly flush with the top.
4. Protect the boiler and frames/cylinders with cardboard or layers of cloth (in case you slip). Ideally support the pipes from behind by placing a suitable piece of wood between the pipes and the boiler. Then grasp the pipes firmly and cut them at the mark. Clean away any filings, clear any burrs from the pipe ends and lightly chamfer the edge with a fine file. Keep the cut pipes in case they are ever needed.
5. Now, with the Chuffer slot facing backwards, press it firmly into place on the pipes (see photo right).
6. Try the smoke-box in place and check that the slot is clear of the chimney wall. If it is not, you can gently bend the copper pipe between the Chuffer and adapter to align it correctly, or re-fit the Chuffer slot facing forwards.
7. Re-fit the smoke-box etc. and the job is done (though you may wish to put a dab of black paint on the top to disguise it). Then steam up and enjoy the chuff!
Important note for those fitting to early Roundhouse Locos
Early locos had their twin exhausts cut much shorter than the later one shown here. They normally had either a simple, open tube pushed over this to "enhance" the chuff or a crimped pipe to "Inhibit" the oil/water spray.
The standard SCRH1 Chuffer will be positioned too low if fitted to these pipes so either:
1. Remove any tube that is fitted over the exhausts using a pair of pliers. It is just a push fit. Place the smokebox on the footplate in the normal position and then measure from the top of the pipes to the top of the chimney and record this in mm. When ordering your SCRH1 Chuffer from your supplier, or direct from Nigel, add this number to the code e.g. SCRH1-88 where your measurement is 88mm.
2. If you have already purchased a standard SCRH1 then just send it back to Nigel with the correct code (e.g. SCRH1-88), and he will make a new one for you free of charge.
3. Or if you are happy to modify the standard one, you canut the copper pipe in the middle and sleeve in a piece of 5/32" K&S brass tube from the Metal Centre in your hobby shop to make the total length equal to your measurement (eg. 88mm). This may be firm enough with a push fit but would be better silver soldered.
See a video of the fitting process at the bottom of the page.
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