Here Stuart Timms has fitted an SCGP2 Chuffer to his Frank S (which he has also had modified in various ways, including fitting a Roundhouse burner, a gas tank on the loco - under one of the side tanks - and converted it to run on 32mm track.
Here are Stuart's notes, photos and at the bottom of the page, a video.
Stage 1:- Photo number 1. This shows the exhaust bolt/banjo connection under the loco. This needs to be removed along with the pipe work that pushes up into the waste oil collector.
Stage 2 :- The chimney needs to be twisted anticlockwise whilst holding the securing nut through the smoke box door. This can then be removed.
Stage 3:- The top exhaust pipe can then be pulled out of the top of the waste oil collector.
Stage 4:- Now the 2 securing screws that hold the plate and the oil collector to the front of the boiler can be removed and the collector and plate will slide out. Please notice photos 2,3,& 4 shows the plate and oil collector from several angles so you can see where the pipes entered. Also note the bent up backing plate as I didnt realise how to remove it until it was out. If the method above is used it should just come out without any damage. Not as though its going to be used again once its removed. The Summerlands Chuffer does the same as the oil collector stopping the excess oily steamy mess going out of the chimney over the engine.
Stage 5:- A piece of copper 5/32 pipe that has an internal diameter of 1/8 needs to be bent into an s shape and cut to size. The banjo bolt and pipework need to be fixed back in place. This piece of pipework also needs shortening a little bit (mine was shortened by appromiantly 10mm). This part is a bit trial and error fitting into place then holding your s pipe against it. It all depends on how you have bent your s shape pipe. I recommend you get the s pipe fitting as low as you can get it. Then the Summerlands general purpose SCGP2 chuffer then slides on to the top of the s piece.
Stage 6 :- Screw the chimney in place to see how far the chuffer is sticking out. If it is to high, then the top of the s tube will have to be cut shorter. Once the chuffer is a few mm from the top of the chimney and your happy with the fitting. Removve the chimney and leave the chuffer in place. Now mark the top part of the s shape pipe where it meets the chuffer. Remove the chuffer and slightly ovalise the pipe by squeezing it with some pliers gently. This will make the chuffer grip the s pipe stopping it slipping down or shaking loose. Now the chuffer can be pushed back into place down to the mark on the s tube please see pic number 5 of the chuffer in place on the s shaped pipe.
Your Frank S should now look like picture 6.
Stage 7 :- Now take the chimney that you have removed. And insert a piece of pipe to act as a chuff resonator 9.5mm/3/8ths in diammeter about 45mm long (thin wall). This will also need to be slightly ovalised with some pliers so it stays attached to the chimney. Once you are happy screw the chimney back into place with the securing nut held under the hole. See picture 6 for the chimney removed and the pipe inserted. And pic 8 of the chimney being pushed into place.
Then steam it up and listen to it chuff. If it is to loud. Just remove the chimney and resonator pipe and shorten the resonator pipe. then steam it up again and listen to the chuff.
Please watch the youtube video of my lgb aster frank s being steamed up and run (below). This engine also has been converted from 45mm to run on either 45mm or 32mm. A Roundhouse Pressure valve, Burner, Gas jet, & Gas regulator have been fitted. along with a custom made tank in the side of the loco body. Also a clack valve has been plumbed in with pipework to a brass tank inside the tender with a water top up hand pump. All work carried out by Larry Cheeseman. The video was shot by Bert Gascoine at Brambleton model railway club in Harpendon.